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31.M091N-Phase Coupler for Power Line Products
32.M168-Overvoltage Protection 12 V/DC
33.M157-Marten defence
34.M113A-Time switch 12 - 15 V/DC
35.L100-Conductive Silver
36.M114N-Flasher, slow 240 V/AC, 110 V/AC
37.FG016-Exhaust Control
38.M062-Mini-Fence-High-Voltage Generator
39.M048N-Ultrasonic Generator
40.M169A-Temperature switch-thermostat 12 V/DC
41.B156N-FM receiver
42.M071N-Ultrasonic vermin repeller
43.FG025-Pasture Fence Device - High-Voltage Device for Electric Fences
44.M174-Solar charging regulator Dual 16 A
45.M202-Lead-Acid Battery Activator / Refresher 12 V
46.M161-Ultrasonic Power Cannon
47.FG025SET-Marten and Raccoon Repeller Electric Fence
48.E011-Experimental board, strip grid
49.M032S-Universal Amplifier 12 W "Plug & Play"
50.B093-Electronic dice
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Soldering presentation shortform

Assembly + Soldering

The components have to be inserted into the board according to the assembly print. Depending on the basic grid distance of the borings on the board the components have to be mounted in horizontal or vertical position. When bending the leads of the components please pay attention that these will not be bent directly at the components! The components might be damaged in such a case! Hold the wires with pointed pliers and bend them directly at the pliers so that no lateral powers are transmitted into the interior of the component!
Soldering on the board may only be done with a modern electronic soldering copper (15...30 Watt) with a fine point and colophonium-containing electronic soldering tin! Do not use acidic flux! Before supplying the soldering tin, at first heat the soldering joint with the point of the soldering copper. Press the point slightly against the soldering joint so that the land for soldering on the board and the lead of the component are heatet simultaneously. After approx. 1...2 seconds you may add the soldering tin without removing the soldering copper from the soldering joint in the meantime. The soldering tin must lead cleanly around the wire of the component and has to surround the wire cleanly without forming craters. Only then you may remove the soldering tin and after that the soldering iron. Furthermore attention must be paid that no "soldering tin bridges" are made to the adjoining copper tracks and lands for soldering if these are not electrically connected with the soldering joint anyway. The whole soldering should not exceed 5 seconds at maximum, as otherwise the components may be destroyed. The most frequent mistakes during soldering are:"cold soldering joints" and "short circuits" due to tin bridges or end of wires which were not cut off if these get into touch with an adjoining soldering joint. The soldering point must always be clean and free from scale and oxide. If this cannot be removed by simply wiping with a cloth, file the point once again and tin-plate it immediately again. However, this should only be done with simple copper points. The modern permanent soldering points merely have to be wiped with a humid cloth.

Picture of  soldering


  • In order to solder the kits it is especially suitable to use a commercial 15...30W soldering iron and 60% solder tin.
  • There should never be any soldering out of the edges of the soldering spot!
  • The conducting line and the wire lead of the kit have to be heated up at the same time.
  • The solder tin should then be melted at the soldering spot (not at the soldering iron!). The solder tin should flow evenly round the soldering spot.
  • Now, cut off the sticking out wire. That`s how the finished soldering spot should look like!

Picture of a finished soldering spot

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soldering presentation shortform

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